Once a symbol of hard work and dedication, and today a reminder of Brela's rich heritage, the Maraska sour cherry is woven into many life stories...
Our beautiful land, as we fondly call it, is rich in diversity within its relatively small space. East, west, south... every corner of Croatia offers something different, and rarely will we come across places with the same characteristics and features. The richness in diversity is our advantage, and it is definitely worth building tourist stories on it. One such story comes from central Dalmatia, more precisely from Brela, and the reason lies in the juicy fruit – the Maraska cherry.
Photo: Tom Dubravec/Cropix
The former cultivation of sour cherries in Brela cannot be compared to the way cherries are grown today, nor can the life of the local community, which was defined by cherry fruit-growing culture, be compared to the spirit of unity in Brela today which is shaped by other cultures and occupations. Indeed, as someone aptly noted, at the beginning of the second half of the 20th century, the Maraska sour cherry was valued as highly as premium olive oil is today. The excellence of the fruit is not the only reason for this, but also the tremendous effort that was required in its cultivation, fruit picking, and distribution. It is no wonder that many locals actually recall the toil and effort with discomfort, and nostalgically conclude that calmer times have now arrived. However, despite the toilsome and laborious work with cherries and the vivid memory of it, many say that Maraska cherries actually defined them as a place, a family, and individuals. Thanks to the fruit, they felt the sweetness of its picking and the joy of distribution, which involved sales in distant parts of Europe. There was and is no match for the sour cherries from Brela!
Photo: Brela Tourist Board
Once a source of livelihood – there wasn't a house that didn't have at least one cherry tree, and many had entire orchards – today it is just an interesting aspect of family history, like a specific story that every visitor to Brela must hear. Indeed, the Maraska cherry found its most suitable conditions there, as Brela's variety, called "sokoluša," is considered one of the highest quality sour cherry varieties in the world. Although we often associate it with liqueurs, Brela's cherry is equally enchanting in homemade jam, which is an ingredient in many cakes and desserts. If any cherry will fascinate us with its taste, it is the one with the Brela signature, as no other has become as famous as it.
The credit for the worldwide fame of the Maraska sour cherry is not only due to the diligent residents of Brela and their efforts but also to the geographical characteristics of the southern slopes of Biokovo Mountain, which terrace down towards the sea. Indeed, the northern part of this specific narrow area, the Podbiokovo region, is home to olives, grapevines, and Brela's "sokoluša" cherry. The local microclimatic conditions, combined with soil quality, have produced a fruit with the ideal ratio of water to dry matter, crucial for fruit quality. The sunny side of Biokovo has proven to be a winning combination for the cultivation of these crops, and although cherry cultivation is declining, some still find their "home soil" there.
Photo: Brela Tourist Board
Today, Brela's cherry is like a character from a legend: stories circulate about it. Some are nostalgic, evoking playful images of summer harvests, others touch on calculations of invested effort and profit, and still others wonder if this cherry has truly "disappeared" and whether its past is its current reality? No, it has not. The Maraska sour cherry lives on. There are fewer of them, that is true, and they have somewhat "gone wild," but they have not disappeared. They have found their role in contemporary cuisine, in dishes, cocktails, liqueurs, and sweets. But also in literature!
The "sokoluša" sour cherry (Prunus cerasus var. marasca), therefore, an indigenous and original variety selected precisely in Brela, found its place in the publication of Brela's students who released a picture book titled "From Brela, So What!" which, as their school website states, has aroused "nostalgia in Brela for the days when Brela lived off cherry cultivation." The publication itself was based on the memories of a local resident, Nada Žamić, the grandmother of then 8th-grade student Gabriel Antun Šošić.
Photo: Tom Dubravec/Cropix
The extent to which the Maraska sour cherry has become part of the symbiosis between the fruit tree and humans is evident in the famous verses of the writer Petar Gudelj:
"My name is bitter, from the core of the cherry.
Around cherries grew and bore Maraska cherries.
Hanging from the branches,
From the ancient Brela soil
Drawing sustenance and medicine.
The globally renowned Maraschino liquor.
When the cherry bore abundantly,
The people of Brela would proudly say:
I'm from Brela, so what!"
Indeed, the people of Brela can proudly say where they come from, because their place is the capital of the Maraska sour cherry. The resilience, containing only love for their homeland, as well as the joy when the cherry bore abundantly, speak volumes about the Croatian people. Our people have always worked hard and knew that the fruit of their labour would never fail them because it is based on the gifts of the One whose gifts are abundant. Let the story of the connection between the people of Brela and their fruit remind us that we need to give our all if we want to finally enjoy the fruits of our labour.