Sinj (a small town near Split, Croatia) and the Cetina region have long attracted attention with the unique and interesting traditional events, but the ‘Carnival Festival’ certainly falls into the special category
However, as well as centuries-old gatherings of the carnival groups in the villages at the foot of nearby Kamešnica Mountain, which were supposed to precede the festival and the usual final carnival events, due to the circumstances caused by the Corona pandemic, it is postponed for the next year with, hopefully, more favourable conditions.
Photo: Monika Vrgoč
At the Festival, numerous visiting carnival groups have the opportunity to present themselves to the general public in one place, and the result is a lively, cheerful and noisy parade that hides a long tradition of maintenance, according to the carefully and strictly established rules. Carnivals are the best promotors and guardians of carnival customs in this region and the fact that they are on the list of the protected Intangible Cultural Heritage of the Republic of Croatia, testify to us of how valuable and important they actually are.
Photo: Monika Vrgoč
In the villages of the area carnival processions are a unique and original way of presenting ancient customs interwoven with the sound of carnival bells and other accompanying rituals. The schedule of the carnival pageant is based on a strict traditional rules, not subject to any changes, in which only men can participate. At the head of the parade there is a white group with the barjo (standard-bearer) and a carnival wedding guests, then a group of komedija (comedies), and finally with a certain interval, arrives a black group. The wedding procession, which symbolizes the final end of winter and the arrival of spring, was once led by the first did(an old man), and nowadays by the barje (standard-bearer). A mannish, pregnant bride, accompanied by a diver (a groomsman) is looking for the groom, which is the main "task" of the whole parade.
Photo: Monika Vrgoč
There are also jenge (married women), jengije(bridesmaids) as well as the other wedding figures wearing a formal dresses (folk costumes) which also engage in the pageant. An Ottoman man commands the both carnival pageant groups so that they do not mix, since they are not allowed to be in the same place and at the same time. The figures of the Ottoman and the bula(in Turkish: woman) are associated with long-standing Ottoman rule in this area.
Photo: Nikola Belančić
Following the carnival wedding procession comes a komedija (comedies),a carnival group which openly criticizing the current social and political topics or issues and does not spare anyone the criticism. Black group is led by baba and dida (an old woman and old man) – bearers of the fertility cult who yield and evoke a better crop, which is another indispensable ritual element. There are also žalovice, mourning widows who lament jocular comic slogans and letting out humorous wails.
Photo: Nikola Belančić
The most attractive and impressive part of the procession, however, include the imposing Didi participants. Up on their heads they wear sheep fleeces, up to 1.5 metres in height! And bells around their waist. The didi are dressed in old shabby clothes with colourful fringes sewn on. They symbolise the ritual battle of good spirits against winter, chasing it away by making noise and jumping up and down. With the loud ringing of bells, they remove the spell from the cattle, which, along with fertility and the arrival of the spring, testify to the most important preoccupations of our ancestors.
Photo: Monika Vrgoč
The main goal of the carnival parade of the Cetina region is striving to popularize the rich tradition of the carnival customs, unique in Europe. Although carnival customs with similar themes exist in other parts of Croatia and Europe, they always embody the ritual struggle of good spirits against winter, driven by the noise and jumping up and down.
Therefore, Didi are gladly welcome guests at the various festivals throughout Croatia and Europe, but also an inspiring motive for numerous scientific researches, exhibitions and lectures on the subject of the intangible heritage. Finally, the famous magazine National Geographic on one of its covers presents the unique story of Didi from Kamešnica Mountain, to the world.
Source: Sinj Tourist Board